It is early. Maybe 5:00 because the sun isn’t up yet. The church bells are sounding their morning drone and the animal sounds of the night are performing their morning calls. I woke up completely awake and almost literally jumped out of bed. All night I had strange vivid dreams of the like that could set the pace for one’s day all the way up until the return to bed at night. It’s been a weird past couple of days.
Last week, Sister Fatima’s father passed away and in the last few days I got to experience everything that goes into a Samoan funeral. The whole village seemed to stop. I’ve really only been working 1-2 periods a day all week and even today I only have one class. The funeral was yesterday (actually I’m not apt with my funeral terms, this was the part where you go to the house and view the body but there was no burying yet) and the entire school in uniform and all walked all the way across Fasito’otai, our neighboring village, and waited about two hours in a roadside fale for the body to arrive at which point we lined a long road military style with two rows of people on each side as if we were going to salute the body as it passed. Everyone was pretty cheery when we got there. I didn’t see any tears although Sister Fatima understandably seemed beside herself. The students sang many beautiful songs and there was a long sermon by a local priest who gave communion and blessed the house. We all sat barefoot and cross-legged on the floor surrounding the body. Besides a few minor differences it wasn’t much unlike a funeral in the states. The funeral ended very late and night had crept over the village. It was a really nice night with a bright slice of the moon lighting my long walk home.
I’ve spent much time in Fasito’otai lately. Partly because another volunteer lives there but mostly because I’ve been networking with villagers about letting me use their waters to spearfish. I hadn’t eaten fish since mid-December but my medical officer strongly advised that I incorporate seafood into my diet as a way to promote a better immune system and after my recent infection I want nothing to do with sickness around here. I was happy to discover a wonderful section of beach that has no owner thus granting me permission to fish and have access to the waters with no hassle. I even talked to some villagers who said they would allow me to come with them on their fishing boats (awesome!) during fishing adventures. I’ve seen the prize they often return with.. I didn’t know such sea beasts existed. I’ve always been a bit of a salty pirate and it seems like I’m going to have a great opportunity to see that destiny flourish.
I also finished my tatau the other day. I was surprised at how much more painful the chest area is than I expected. Lopi came with me and he is pursuing an entire calf-sleeve done traditionally. I have to tip my bandana to him because that is quite an endeavor and having experienced a traditional tattoo I can safely say he’s in for a ride. I never made a facial expression though as I promised myself. In cultures with traditional body modification there always seems to be an essence of ‘rite of passage’ and because of this one must endure by showing no sign of the pain affecting you. National Geographic Taboo series (if you haven’t seen it – buy it – worship it – dip it in bronze) would be proud.
The person who is most interested in my tatau is Filimaua, a teacher at my school. Fili is a Matai of perhaps fifty-something years old. A matai is very proud of his title and typically they will pursue the pe’a, which is the full body tatau, as a sign of their status. The process is extremely painful and people often say that if they knew how painful it was they would have never done it. Fili seems to have family issues holding him back from getting the pe’a, perhaps a wife who wont stand for it or something of the like, and he is very distressed about his lack of tattoo. We drowned a few buckets of ‘ava the other day with Lolesio and Fiapule, two other teachers, in the teacher’s lounge while speaking of Samoan legends and traditions. ‘Ava has never really hit me too hard but for some reason the 3+ buckets we finished off left the room spinning and much of my body numb. I like being with these people in such a state of mind. Some things are the same all over the world, you sit around with people and get shitty on something while sharing stories and ambitions and making new friends at the same time. Fili is quickly becoming a good friend of mine. I think he is 51% determined to get the tatau and I told him that I would go with him for part of the process. That would be something. Watching a matai become tattooed by another matai.
*splash
- the title of this entry is 9th Heaven. This comes from a very old legend about the origin of kava however as tradition goes one is not permitted to tell legends unless they completely understand it (i.e. a talking chief) and honestly I don’t understand the story completely.
I had a dream last night that me and a lovely stranger who I created in the dream completely destroyed an Egyptian exhibit and a museum. I can see it vividly in my head when I close my eyes. Not a single one of my dreams have made sense yet but I have never woken up in a clear frame of mind. In fact my dreams continue on into my waking life for longer and longer each time and I literally had to splash water on my face this morning to stop dreaming. If you think I’m going mad, press 1 at the tone and leave a message to whichever voice in my head you feel is responsible enough to take a message.
Last week, Sister Fatima’s father passed away and in the last few days I got to experience everything that goes into a Samoan funeral. The whole village seemed to stop. I’ve really only been working 1-2 periods a day all week and even today I only have one class. The funeral was yesterday (actually I’m not apt with my funeral terms, this was the part where you go to the house and view the body but there was no burying yet) and the entire school in uniform and all walked all the way across Fasito’otai, our neighboring village, and waited about two hours in a roadside fale for the body to arrive at which point we lined a long road military style with two rows of people on each side as if we were going to salute the body as it passed. Everyone was pretty cheery when we got there. I didn’t see any tears although Sister Fatima understandably seemed beside herself. The students sang many beautiful songs and there was a long sermon by a local priest who gave communion and blessed the house. We all sat barefoot and cross-legged on the floor surrounding the body. Besides a few minor differences it wasn’t much unlike a funeral in the states. The funeral ended very late and night had crept over the village. It was a really nice night with a bright slice of the moon lighting my long walk home.
I’ve spent much time in Fasito’otai lately. Partly because another volunteer lives there but mostly because I’ve been networking with villagers about letting me use their waters to spearfish. I hadn’t eaten fish since mid-December but my medical officer strongly advised that I incorporate seafood into my diet as a way to promote a better immune system and after my recent infection I want nothing to do with sickness around here. I was happy to discover a wonderful section of beach that has no owner thus granting me permission to fish and have access to the waters with no hassle. I even talked to some villagers who said they would allow me to come with them on their fishing boats (awesome!) during fishing adventures. I’ve seen the prize they often return with.. I didn’t know such sea beasts existed. I’ve always been a bit of a salty pirate and it seems like I’m going to have a great opportunity to see that destiny flourish.
I also finished my tatau the other day. I was surprised at how much more painful the chest area is than I expected. Lopi came with me and he is pursuing an entire calf-sleeve done traditionally. I have to tip my bandana to him because that is quite an endeavor and having experienced a traditional tattoo I can safely say he’s in for a ride. I never made a facial expression though as I promised myself. In cultures with traditional body modification there always seems to be an essence of ‘rite of passage’ and because of this one must endure by showing no sign of the pain affecting you. National Geographic Taboo series (if you haven’t seen it – buy it – worship it – dip it in bronze) would be proud.
The person who is most interested in my tatau is Filimaua, a teacher at my school. Fili is a Matai of perhaps fifty-something years old. A matai is very proud of his title and typically they will pursue the pe’a, which is the full body tatau, as a sign of their status. The process is extremely painful and people often say that if they knew how painful it was they would have never done it. Fili seems to have family issues holding him back from getting the pe’a, perhaps a wife who wont stand for it or something of the like, and he is very distressed about his lack of tattoo. We drowned a few buckets of ‘ava the other day with Lolesio and Fiapule, two other teachers, in the teacher’s lounge while speaking of Samoan legends and traditions. ‘Ava has never really hit me too hard but for some reason the 3+ buckets we finished off left the room spinning and much of my body numb. I like being with these people in such a state of mind. Some things are the same all over the world, you sit around with people and get shitty on something while sharing stories and ambitions and making new friends at the same time. Fili is quickly becoming a good friend of mine. I think he is 51% determined to get the tatau and I told him that I would go with him for part of the process. That would be something. Watching a matai become tattooed by another matai.
*splash
- the title of this entry is 9th Heaven. This comes from a very old legend about the origin of kava however as tradition goes one is not permitted to tell legends unless they completely understand it (i.e. a talking chief) and honestly I don’t understand the story completely.
I had a dream last night that me and a lovely stranger who I created in the dream completely destroyed an Egyptian exhibit and a museum. I can see it vividly in my head when I close my eyes. Not a single one of my dreams have made sense yet but I have never woken up in a clear frame of mind. In fact my dreams continue on into my waking life for longer and longer each time and I literally had to splash water on my face this morning to stop dreaming. If you think I’m going mad, press 1 at the tone and leave a message to whichever voice in my head you feel is responsible enough to take a message.
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