the road to Mesopotamia

i arrived at the Diyarbakır airport early and bewildered. i hadnt many plans for this trip through the ancient world which im about to embark on but id rather leave things open to uncertainty and chance. originally i figured the airport to be like most others with information centers and maps but only 15 meters from my entrance i was once again outside in a parking lot with the doors locked behind me and no idea how to get to Mardin.

i took a pause of about five good minutes to breathe the new air of this new part of the world when suddenly a very old woman standing next to me tumbled backwards. she was cane bound and something must have given out from under her but myself and a gentleman next to her caught her and helped her back to her seat. it was then that her son witnessed this event and broke conversation with me. i told him i was trying to get to Mardin and he gratefully offered to stack me in his crowded car for a ride to the Otogar which later directed me an hour and a half south to my destination. strange how things come together sometimes.

Mardin is breathtaking and you will see this for yourself when i find an opportunity (perhaps back in istanbul) to upload my many pictures. i arrived on christmas eve to be welcomed by a very very friendly family in relation to a friend of mine i made back in istanbul. the city has lived up to its reputation of a mix between three of the worlds oldest religions and somehow they all live together in harmony and even blend together in some ways.

i was fortunate to spend this morning (christmas morning) in an old church called Kırklar Kilisesi somewhere deep in the clusters of old Mardin. the service was much different from any church service ive ever been to. it was proceeded with two holy men chanting in harmony in what language i believe to be Süryani and towards the end of the procession an enormous sacred fire was lit inside of the stone church with men circling brandishing candles and staffs adorned with golden crosses and religious images. the church was singing and chanting together and always on cue came a haunting roar from the background of that lovely 'lılılılılılı' sound that middle eastern women chant ceremonially at weddings and other events. it was so beautiful and ive actually managed to steal a few two minute videos that i will upload when proper internet access permits.

im staying with this really sweet family who has taken me in selflessly and offered a really old stone lodging for me to make myself comfortable in for the few days i will stay here. today im planning my trip onward through Hasankeyf.

MERRY CHRİSTMAS to all!